In New Mexico, a former Church’s Chicken and gas station has been transformed into a celebrated Italian food spot. The building, now home to Piccolino, serves up lasagna and other Italian dishes, and locals have taken notice.
The family behind Piccolino comes from Chihuahua, Mexico, and honed their Italian cooking skills in Los Angeles before bringing them to New Mexico. Their menu stays loyal to Italy, with a New Jersey-style approach, and green chile barely makes an appearance.
A Surprisingly Big Following
Despite its small size, Piccolino has earned a big following, with readers of a local paper voting it a top Italian spot. The restaurant’s success is even more impressive given its humble beginnings as a fast-food stop and gas station.
The space is family-owned and operated by Olga Tarango-Jimenez and her family, who have made smart use of every inch of the compact building. The focus is on the plates, not flashy decor, and the family’s personal investment in the restaurant shapes the mood in a quiet way.
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When you walk in, you’re greeted with warm Italian bread and marinara sauce, sometimes accompanied by pesto or olive oil. This free bread is a strong opening move, and the marinara has become one of the most talked-about things on the table.
The menu is long and portions are generous, making it easy to get carried away with the bread and sauce. But discipline is key, as you’ll want to save room for the main courses. The gesture of providing free bread sets the tone for the whole meal, feeling thoughtful and welcoming.
A Giant Pasta Lineup
Decision fatigue is a genuine risk at Piccolino, with a menu that covers ravioli, pastas, baked dishes, pizzas, veal, chicken, and seafood. Pasta lovers have plenty of options to choose from, including fettuccine Alfredo, shrimp Alfredo, and chicken and broccoli penne.
The ravioli section is particularly noteworthy, with crab-stuffed ravioli standing out as a tender and flavorful option. Gnocchi fans will also find something to love, with the Gnocchi Di Mare bringing seafood into the picture for a heartier twist on the classic dish.
It’s best to pick one classic dish and one you’ve never tried, then share with someone at the table. This approach lets you explore the menu without gambling your entire dinner on a single guess.
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The New Jersey-style cooking keeps everything rooted in Italian-American comfort, with familiar flavors done with care rather than trendy experiments. Expect to find dishes like chicken Alfredo lasagna, classic meat lasagna, and vegetarian lasagna, all made with love and attention to detail.
One dish that stands out is the lasagna bolloco, a chicken Alfredo lasagna with green chile folded in. It’s a creamy, comforting dish with a gentle New Mexico nudge, and it’s a fun exception to the otherwise green chile-free menu.
The kitchen’s restraint in using green chile makes this dish more exciting, as it feels intentional rather than tossed in to please tourists. The lasagna bolloco is a great starting point for first-timers, telling the story of the restaurant in a single, saucy square.
Other dishes, like chicken piccata and chicken parmesan, are also popular among locals, and the entree section is split into seafood, veal, and chicken for easy navigation. Veal parmesan and chicken Chardonnay are also on the menu, offering old-school Italian-American flavor and creamy sauces.
Portions tend to run large, with many entrees easily stretching into a second meal. It’s a good idea to ask for extra bread with leftovers, as the sauces deserve a proper cleanup the next day.
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Piccolino’s pizza is also worth mentioning, with pies coming in sizes up to 16 inches and plenty of add-on toppings available. The Pizza Stagione is a fine example of the style, with sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, and black olives on one crust.
Fried zucchini and calamari fritti are also on the menu, along with fried mushrooms and mozzarella marinara, making for a solid selection of appetizers. Salads lean creative too, with the Capri Salad pairing mozzarella, tomato, and basil for something fresh before heavier plates arrive.
Pizza fits nicely into takeout plans, and ordering ahead and swinging by is a great way to get dinner for the hotel room or living room couch. Mixing a pie with a pasta is a crowd-pleasing move for families, with everyone getting a slice of the action.
As you peruse the menu, you’ll notice that the prices are very reasonable, with most dishes falling in the $15-$25 range. The quality of the food is exceptional, and the portions are generous, making it a great value for the price.
